Ode to the Sea

At Pao, renowned chef Paul Qui and his team craft dishes that merge Filipino traditions with international influences.

ARTICLE ORIGINALLY PUBLISHED IN FAENA JOURNAL ISSUE #59 • SPRING 2025

This season, Pao’s menu has taken an exciting turn with the addition of wild-caught and sustainably raised Bluefin Tuna sourced from Baja California through True World. The chefs at Pao are putting their own spin on the high-grade ingredient by aging it for a week to enhance its natural flavor, texture and shelf life. Chef de Cuisine Paulina Ornelas explained, “By aging it, we enhance the umami of the meat. The aging process breaks down the proteins, releasing amino acids, which contributes to a deeper, more complex taste.” Each part of the fish has a different flavor profile. The akami is the leanest part of the tuna and has a mild and rich flavor. 

The chu-toro cut is half lean and half fat, while O-toro is the fatty belly of the fish. “After aging O-toro, the moisture evaporates, and the fish’s natural oils and flavors become more concentrated. It tastes sweeter and has a melt-inyour-mouth texture,” she added. Pao’s new tuna offerings feature various preparations throughout the menu, from sashimi and nigiri to shiso tacos and the restaurant’s signature Maguro Crudo. One standout weekend special popular with diners has been the tuna steak. “We keep changing the cooking method and presentation, so our guests experience the versatility and creativity of Pao’s kitchen.” Chef Ornelas notes that Pao’s menu reflects layers of flavors, textures, and techniques of its Filipino roots, but also the diverse nationalities of the culinary team, which range from Latin American to Japanese. “We all interpret the recipes through our own cultural lens, creating a diversity of flavor and preparation that carries with it distinct international references,” she said. “It’s what makes the dishes at Pao so nuanced and delicious.”